Why do we do it?
Why do we spend countless hours typing words and chasing a dragon no one really cared about in the first place?
We don’t do it for the hard cash (for those of you thinking there’s plenty of money in publishing, I’d advise turning to more profitable enterprises, like waiting tables, car washing, or lawn mowing).
It’s not for the fame – I mean, your uncle
has more chances of getting famous for eating 66 hot dogs in a row than you’ll ever be for getting published. Wayne
It’s not to shine.
Not to be different.
Nor to find a place in the world.
No, we do it for a reason no one would have ever suspected: we do it for the love of paddling out there, struggling and fronting the waves.
Writers and surfers have a lot in common.