Sunday, November 14, 2010

Are you a surfer or a writer?

Why do we do it?

Why do we spend countless hours typing words and chasing a dragon no one really cared about in the first place?

We don’t do it for the hard cash (for those of you thinking there’s plenty of money in publishing, I’d advise turning to more profitable enterprises, like waiting tables, car washing, or lawn mowing).

It’s not for the fame – I mean, your uncle Wayne has more chances of getting famous for eating 66 hot dogs in a row than you’ll ever be for getting published.

It’s not to shine.

Not to be different.

Nor to find a place in the world.

No, we do it for a reason no one would have ever suspected: we do it for the love of paddling out there, struggling and fronting the waves.

Writers and surfers have a lot in common.

Sure, there are a few writers and surfers becoming famous, enjoying Piña Colada with other celebrities while gazing at the grey blue ocean.

Most surfers and writers will never get famous - but then again I'm convinced most of us don’t give a dam about pictures, celebrity, money, or the quality of the rum in our cocktails.

We just want to do it.


Paddle. Rise. Surf.


I don’t know…

I guess it’s what we were meant to do. Writers. Surfers. Struggling. Paddling, Finding the perfect momentum for the perfect wave and… whoosh… off we go, like Icarus to the sun.

"Sometimes in the morning, when it's a good surf, I go out there, and I don't feel like it's a bad world."

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